The Art Behind Every Authentic Chikankari Garment

Why Chikankari Is Known as the Art of Shadow Work

A finished Chikankari garment may appear effortless, but the journey behind it involves remarkable skill and patience.

The process begins with design creation.

Traditional motifs are first engraved onto wooden blocks. These blocks are dipped into washable colour and carefully stamped onto the fabric, transferring the design that artisans will later embroider.

Only then does the embroidery begin.

Using specialised stitches passed down through generations, artisans gradually bring the pattern to life by hand.

Some of the most famous Chikankari stitches include:

Bakhiya

Often called the shadow stitch, Bakhiya creates the soft translucent effect for which Chikankari is famous.

Murri

A raised knot stitch resembling tiny grains of rice, often used in flower centres.

Phanda

A knot stitch that resembles millet seeds and adds texture and dimension.

Jaali

One of the most admired techniques, creating a delicate net-like appearance without cutting or pulling threads.

Tepchi

A simple running stitch used to outline and define motifs.

Together, these stitches create extraordinary depth, texture, and beauty.

Every authentic hand-embroidered garment represents hours — and often days — of skilled craftsmanship.