The Most Iconic Chikankari Stitches Explained: Bakhiya, Phanda, Murri, Jaali & More

Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari is defined by its stitches. What makes a true chikankari kurta, Anarkali, saree, gharara, or palazzo set special is not just the design, but the handwork behind it. The most iconic stitches are what separate original hand embroidered Lucknowi Chikankari from machine-made copies.

Bakhiya is one of the most recognised stitches, often called shadow work. It creates a soft, subtle effect where the embroidery appears delicate and refined from the front while the work is done from the reverse side. This is a signature of fine chikankari.

Phanda is a small knot-like stitch used to create floral details such as tiny buds and petals. It adds texture and dimension, especially in intricate motifs.

Murri is similar to phanda but more grain-like and polished in appearance. It is often used for jasmine petals and delicate floral centers, giving the embroidery a richer finish.

Jaali is one of the most admired techniques. It creates a fine net-like effect within the fabric without cutting or damaging the threads, showing the real skill of the artisan.

Other important stitches include tepchi for outlining and keel kangan for detailed floral patterns.

At Fiza Chikan, we value these details because true luxury in Lucknowi Chikankari always begins with the hand that creates it.